A Flight Ready Timepiece: IWC Pilot’s Watch

February 22, 2012
Brand, Flight Week, History, Watches
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IWC Big Pilot's Watch

Air Force and Navy pilots regularly subject themselves to conditions far more severe than those experienced by the average person. High altitudes, low temperatures, tight quarters, perilous missions, these are all daily circumstances for fighter pilots.  To compete with these perilous situations military pilots have to be outfitted with hardwearing flight suits, helmets, and equipment.  One of these special accouterments is a watch that can withstand the elements at over fifty thousand feet where the extraordinarily high air pressure, and complex flight instruments have a tendency to cause normal watches to become grossly inaccurate.  

Backing on a Special Edition Big Pilot's Watch Paying Homage to the U.S. Navy's Top Gun Flight School

IWC (International Watch Company), the illustrious Swiss watchmakers, was the first to develop a flight-ready watch in 1936 with the “Special Pilot’s Watch.”  One of the earliest models of this piece was the Big Pilot Watch, IWC’s largest watch ever and a true testament to the size of Pilot Watches and the unprecedented amount of features packed into one timepiece.  Beginning with the face of the watch, the Pilot Watch’s dial is reminiscent of the look of a cockpit with bold clear numbers and dashes for easy readability, a crucial attribute for pilot’s who did not have time to waste trying to read a cluttered dial.  This face is protected by a dense, airtight piece of glass that is designed to shield the watch’s movement from any debris that could potentially float in mid flight.  Below the dial is the movement itself, an unbelievably precise arrangement that is still to this day a marvel of modern watch manufacturing.  The movement is encased in a layered multi-component structure that protects it from any magnetic waves or atmospheric interference that might disrupt the watch’s accuracy.  

Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar

The Pilot Watch was expertly designed as the optimum watch for flight personel, and it certainly lived up to its claim.  Thanks to its unrivaled accuracy, the watch has been adopted by the venerable British Royal Air Force and the United States Navy as well as countless other commercial, private, and military pilots for over a half century.  Today the Pilot Watch comes in an array of different models, each maintaining the original characteristics of the watch, such as the legible face and the trademark triangle at twelve o’clock, but also adding in various other dials, stopwatches, and unique details.  For more information on this momentous timepiece, you can visit Hodinkee, the upmost source for anything watch related or IWC’s own website.

Airplane Detail on the Dial of a Big Pilot's Watch

Bomber Jackets to Blousons

February 20, 2012
Flight Week, Guides, History, Outerwear
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Air Force Pilots Wearing MA-1 Jackets

In the 1950′s the U.S. Air Force took a massive step forward with the invention of jet fighter planes.  These aircraft could reach higher altitudes than ever thought imaginable thus giving the military an obvious newfound edge. While jet planes were an advantageous invention for the U.S. they also posed a problem for the pilots themselves, as the upper atmospheres had significantly lower temperatures.  Up until this period pilots wore fleece-lined leather jackets that functioned adequately during lower level flights, but with jet aircraft these jackets posed a potential hazard to the pilots.  If the jackets got wet, wether from simple precipitation during flight or from rain as the pilot walked to the aircraft, this would cause the jacket to not only bulk up but also freeze at the lower temperatures, which could be deadly for the pilot.  As a result the military had to design a more streamlined, lightweight jacket that would not only avoid freezing, but also not impede the pilot’s movement in the new more confined jet cockpit.  In response to this demand the MA-1 bomber was developed, a polyester lined, dual pocket, nylon jacket with an elastic cinch bottom.  This jacket solved all the existing problems as the polyester lining was able to brave the frigid temperatures, and the cinch bottom and nylon front kept out any precipitation.  Nylon had not been previously utilized in manufacturing military clothing as it was mainly reserved for parachutes, but in this case the material was ideal because of it’s light weight and water repellency.

General Dwight D. Eisenhower wearing an Eisenhower Jacket

While the jacket was first and foremost a military garment, it was both practical and simple enough to effortlessly translate over into civilian life.  MA-1′s became a staple within both the hardcore punk and hip hop communities throughout the latter twentieth century.  As a primarily casual jacket, the MA-1 design took on a new more formal approach when it was combined with the Eisenhower Jacket, a timeless unlined wool officers jacket that resembled a sport coat.  The MA-1′s dual pocket front, cinch waistband, and full closure, were combined with the Eisenhower Jacket’s thinner construction and more dignified look to create the modern blouson.  Today blousons are made from any number of lighter-weight materials, primarily suede or cotton and are a comfortable medium between formal and casual.

A.P.C. Cotton Twill Bomber Jacket

Ami Raglan Sleeve Suede Bomber Jacket

BLK DNM Suede Bomber Jacket

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Padded Suede Jacket

Loro Piana Suede Bomber Jacket

Todd Synder Fall 2012

February 17, 2012
Brand, Fashion Week, Outerwear
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The title of Todd Snyder’s Fall 2012 presentation, “An American in Paris,” sounds just as appropriate for a movie as it does for a menswear collection.  Yet the clothes almost seem to portray a movie narrative themselves, telling the story of what happens when American G.I.’s fresh from World War Two leave the front lines for some time away in Paris.  The outcome is a fascinating interplay of rugged military pieces with more tailored urban garments.  Slim cargo pants and suede bombers are presented alongside two button blazers and formal vests giving the collection a complex yet wearable aesthetic. Snyder’s color palette continues to mix military with European, utilizing army-esque drab greens and bright oranges, with more muted grays and browns that echo the city streets of Paris.  Where the collection really thrives is in outerwear, offering everything from a traditional deep navy trench coat complete with epaulets, to a thick knee length parka with a fur-lined hood, to several top coats in a variety of weights and fabrics.  Todd Snyder brilliantly pulls from prominent trends in menswear and expands upon them to create a collection that is both progressive and appropriately modern.  Here are some standouts from the collection:

Photos via GQ

Michael Bastian Fall 2012

February 15, 2012
Brand, Fashion Week
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Michael Bastian‘s Fall 2012 collection is inspired by the Extra Men, 1970′s playboys that were a consistent presence amongst the New York socialite crowd.  These were the men that stood out in a crowded room, instantly drawing people in through their ability to dress, entertain, and charm better than anyone else.  Just as these unique attributes made the Extra Men the pinnacle of New York City social life, it is the smaller elements of the collection that make it so remarkable. Bastian’s collection is not only founded upon clean, well-fitting silhouettes but it is in the details (elbow patches, intense cutaway collars, contrast buttons, dog patterning etc.) that he gives each individual piece a distinct edge that makes it undeniably his own.

The concept of the Extra Man is also reflected in the blend of casual and formal pieces.  These Extra Men would have looked just as appropriate in Bastian’s pinstripe suits and double breasted blazers when out for a night, as they would in the shawl collar sweaters and brown leather jackets during more dressed down occasions.  The Extra Men were extraordinary gentlemen that are not only from a bygone era, but almost seem forgotten themselves.  By pulling inspiration from these individuals, Michael Bastian not only resurrects their spirit but also continues to steer American menswear back in a more refined and stately direction.  Here are some standouts from the collection:

Photos via GQ

Billy Reid Fall 2012

February 13, 2012
Brand, Fashion Week, Recap
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As his first runway show, one would think that Billy Reid‘s Fall 2012 collection was all about progression, but for me the story was truly about balance.  Reid is already renowned for letting his southern background shine through in classically inspired American designs, yet this year there was clearly a lot of other influences at play.  When discussing his influences, Reid spoke of trips to both Paris and London that inspired him and played a big role in creating this year’s collection.  The collection took the tailored look of traditional Southern formalwear, stripped away the dandyism, and replaced it with luxe European inspired details.  The European mentality of buying thoughtful cornerstone pieces was clearly evident in investment pieces such as leathers and furs.  Clean silhouettes, gorgeous fabrics, and stately colors ran throughout the collection, giving it a perfect metropolitan look.

Photos via Women’s Wear Daily

Inspired by: New York Writers

February 10, 2012
Kit, New Yorkers Week
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This is the final part of a weeklong series honoring the style of culturally significant New Yorkers.  Today features three legendary New York writers that were not only inspired by the culture of the city, but became essential to that culture through their work.  

Tom Wolfe

Borsalino Hat - Richard James Two Button Linen Suit Jacket - Richard James Linen Suit Trousers - Isaia Frank Dress Shirt - Paul Smith Polka Dot Silk Tie - Chavret Silk Polka Dot Pocket Square - Crockett & Jones Hallam Shoes

John Updike

Moscot Vilda Glasses - Ralph Lauren Black Label Anthony Wool Gabardine Suit - Gitman Vintage Oxford Shirt - Thom Browne Striped Tie - Ovadia & Sons Black Calf Pebbled Leather Milford Double Buckle Shoe

Jack Kerouac

Baracuta G9 Harrington Jacket - Folk Gingham Check Linen Shirt - Filson Bridle Leather Belt - Levi’s Vintage 501 Jean - Alden Indy Work Boots - Lucky Strike Cigarettes

Inspired By: New York Musicians

February 8, 2012
Kit, New Yorkers Week
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This is part two of a weeklong series honoring the style of culturally significant New Yorkers.  Today features five New York Musicians spanning across decades and genres. 

Miles Davis

John Smedley Belvoir Merino Wool Rollneck Sweater - Steven Alan Jersey Reverse Seam Long Sleeve Shirt – Mismo Bridle Leather Belt - Epaulet Slim Walt Trouser Natural Irish Linen - Drakes Gentlemen’s Cotton Socks - Mark McNairy Tasselled Pebble Grain Leather Loafers

Simon and Garfunkel

Art Garfunkel: Thom Browne Classic Three Button Wool Blazer - Ralph Lauren Purple Label Button Down - Alexander Olch Solid Linen Twill Tie - Imogene + WIllie Barton Black Rigid Jeans - Loake Bayswater Chelsea Boot

Paul Simon: Billy Reid Tweed Wool Suit Jacket - Gitman Vintage Oxford Shirt – Drakes Untipped Woven Boucle Silk Tie - Billy Reid Tweed Wool Suit Trousers - Paraboot Coraux Shoe

Bob Dylan

Johnstons Blackwatch Cashmere Scarf - Post O’Alls Engineers Jacket - Gant Rugger New Haven Button Front Shirt - Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1960′s Striped Tee - Levi’s Vintage 1960s 605 Jean - Wolverine 1000 Mile Black Boot

A$AP Rocky

Comme Des Fuckdown Beenie - BLK DNM Leather Motorcycle Jacket - Y-3 Wool Cashmere Hoodie – Pigalle Short Sleeve Shirt - DRKSHDW By Rick Owens Jersey and Poplin Cargo Pants - Rick Owens Mens Leather Sneaker


Inspired by: New York Filmmakers

February 6, 2012
Kit, New Yorkers Week
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With New York Fashion Week starting this week, the inundation of new trends and styles in the city will be staggering.  But I wanted to take a step back and dedicate this week to the enduring characters of New York.  These filmmakers, musicians, and artists that not only live in the city, but through their work have helped to define what it means to be a part of New York.  So in their honor, all this week I’ll be making kits inspired by those that best illustrate what it means to have New York style.

Woody Allen

Moscot Zelig Glasses - A.P.C. Harris Tweed Blazer - Kent Wang White Rugby - Incotex Slim-Fit Cotton Blend Trousers - Brooks Brothers Argyle Socks – Florsheim Markham Shoes

Jim Jarmusch

Linda Farrow Luxe Titanium Aviators - Filson Mackinaw Wool Cruiser - Norse Projects Cornprint Shirt - Ralph Lauren Black Label Slim-Fit Jeans - Mark McNairy Brogue Boots - Marlboro Reds

Spike Lee

Moscot Grunya Glasses - New York Yankees Fitted Cap - Brooks Brothers Corduroy Bomber Jacket – Gitman Brothers Vintage Linen Chambray Shirt - Unis Gio Pants - Jordan Spizike Mars Blackmon

In Support of a New Pair of Laces

February 3, 2012
Boot Week, Brand, Footwear, In Support Of
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In constructing a wardrobe, we tend think only in terms of larger, more central pieces – shirts, jackets, pants – these are the items that normally take up most of our attention, while smaller ones tend to fall by the wayside.  While we consider and reconsider what shirt or pants on any given day, you would be hard pressed to find any man that regularly evaluates what shoelaces to wear.

I certainly fell into this category, having never changed or even thought about my shoelaces, until a week ago when I received a set of bright orange laces, courtesy of Stolen Riches, a Toronto based brand.  Stolen Riches is a family owned company that has been producing strictly shoelaces since 1915, and they’ve certainly mastered their craft.  The colors are smart and striking enough to make a difference in any outfit, and the silver tipped endings give off a nice polished look.  I decided to throw the laces on my Bean Boots – this time of year, these boots become ubiquitous and the laces were an easy way to distinguish mine.  The laces are an easy way to instantly breath new life into my worn, olive drab boots.  The orange color plays nicely off the muted green shade and give the boots a nice overall distinction.

Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots

February 1, 2012
Boot Week, Brand, Footwear, History
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My father, a native midwesterner affectionately refers to 1000 Mile Boots as “farm boots,” and quite  frankly this isn’t too far from the truth.  In 1883, G.A. Krause had the idea for a work boot so durable that it could literally “give you 1,000 miles of wear,” a claim based upon the needs of the blue collar workers that surrounded him. With this goal in mind Krause opened Wolverine’s tannery and began experimenting with different leather treatments to produce the highest quality leather possible.  Eventually Wolverine developed shell horsehide, a leather that was manufactured through an intensive double tanning process that turned the hide into a soft and incredibly comfortable material. The boots also featured a stacked leather sole and hardwearing welt, ensuring the boots ability to live up to it’s name.

For decades Wolverine dominated the work boot market as a reliable and well-crafted shoe.  And then in the early twenty-first century, 1000 Mile Boots found their way into a larger market through the expanding “heritage” trend, an oft avoided term, but an appropriate one nonetheless.  When it comes to footwear “heritage” is a positive label, indicating decades of craftsmanship that make for a sturdy, durable product.  1000 Mile Boots fall perfectly into this category and so during this movement they were embraced by a whole new audience.  In keeping up with the times Wolverine began adapting and modifying their boots through minor tweaks.  Wolverine maintains what made 1000 Mile Boots revered – the supple leather, the stacked sole – and added on to this minor design details such as contrast stitching and wingtips to update the boots for a more urban, daily aesthetic.

More From Wolverine's 1000 Mile Boot Collection

More From Wolverine's 1000 Mile Boot Collection

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