The Perfect Fall Jacket – An Unlined Houndstooth Sport Coat

Michael Hainey in Houndstooth by Tommy Ton

Michael Hainey in Houndstooth by Tommy Ton

It’s been a while since I’ve written an actual, applicable “style” piece on here, a fact that I’ll attribute to my general distaste for these last few weeks of summer. The back half of August into September is always a struggle for me – I’m long since tired of linen and rolled up sleeves, but the more I look ahead to fall, the more I’m reminded that those sweaters and tweed jackets sitting in my closet, will have to remain idle for a couple more fortnights. In the spirit of publishing though, I decided to torture myself and write a bit about the one item that I’m really hoping to pick up for this fall – an unlined wool houndstooth sport coat.

Of course when I say “hoping to pick up,” I mean spend my imaginary monopoly money on, but never actually purchase. Nonetheless an unlined houndstooth sport coat is, in my opinion, the perfect fall jacket. My biggest issue with many cold weather weight jackets, is that they end up looking frumpy, with far too much padding that ruins the natural silhouette. I believe that most of a jacket’s structure should stem from the wearer itself, which of course, doesn’t mean all jackets should be devoid of padding, but for right now I will totally admit that I do much prefer a softer shoulder year round.  The lack of lining makes it easy to layer both under and over, which helps to steer clear of Pillsbury Doughboy territory. The most important reason I like this particular jacket, is that houndstooth is favorite fall pattern. It’s not too countrified like many tartan checks, but it still has a solid motif that mirrors the molting leaves, and it happens to be easy to pair with everything from formal dress trousers, to grey chinos, to washed out denim.

Now, the only issue with this jacket, is that it really doesn’t exist off the rack as far as I’m concerned. L.B.M. 1911 makes a very close, albeit slightly dark model, that was actually the jacket that inspired this post. While in the past J. Press has done similar models, it seems they decided to forgo the design this season. Ovadia & Sons created a “Summer Tweed” jacket last season, that’s spot on for the pattern and tone, but would likely be too lightweight for an East Coast winter. Over on Yoox, Boglioli has a few nice options, three of which (1, 2, 3) would certainly suffice. And then there’s this Barena piece, which is quite close, but is a cotton wool blend, and has the dreaded single vent. And then of course, there’s always bespoke if you really feel like spending some monopoly money.


L.B.M. 1911

L.B.M. 1911






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  1. David Y said:

    Hey Jake,
    I truly respect your opinions voiced on WaxWane, always great insight and creative to boot. I am wondering what you hate about single vents? I prefer a single vent on most jackets as I have a “prominent seat” on an otherwise slim frame. I would love to hear your thoughts about it.

    • Thanks David,
      I just don’t like the lines that it cuts along the side, I think that it creates a bit too much “pressure” along the hips and makes for a bad look overall.

  2. The pictures above are all of 3-button jackets. How many buttons on a sport coat do you prefer? If 3, do you like a “true” (no roll) or a 3-roll-2?

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