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Libero Ferrero – Brotherly Bags

July 18, 2012
Bags, Brand, Knowledge Week, Libero Ferrero
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On the surface the story of Libero Ferrero sounds like it could belong to any heritage brand from the past century-three brothers come together to create a line of American made goods inspired by their Italian heritage.  Although after sitting down yesterday with Pete Lafferty, who runs Libero Ferrero along with his two brothers and fiance, I soon realized that the brand is anything but boilerplate.

Born and raised in Michigan, Pete and his two brothers Matthew and Adam, never started out thinking they would be designing bags.  With backgrounds in sales, architecture, and art design, the three collectively had all the loose components needed to start a brand, but it was something they had not considered until a few years ago.  Deciding it was time for a career change, the brother’s pooled their resources and joined together with Pete’s fiance, Julia Salamon to form Libero Ferrero.

Since the brand’s founding, location has always played an integral role.  With one brother out in Los Angeles overseeing production, another brother based in Chicago where he works with Horween leather sourcing materials, and Pete and Julia living in New York handling design and marketing, Libero Ferrero is strategically spaced out to capitalize on each region’s distinct advantage.

Fortunately, Pete brought along two new designs yesterday, the Brigadier a daily carryall and the Balfour a full-zip weekender, which gave me a chance to try out the bags myself.  The first thing I noticed was the buttery texture of the Horween leather, which was some of the softest material I’ve ever felt on a bag.  I was also amazed that the bags were both sturdy and lightweight, a testament to the strength of the leather.  Overall though, what I found most remarkable, or rather unremarkable was the designs themselves.  I say unremarkable because Libero Ferrero’s real strength lies in their simplicity.

The designs are timeless, and not timeless in a tacky marketing way, but literally the bags look like they could have come from any era.  Libero Ferrero’s bags are understated in the best way, on the exterior they allow the straightforward designs and quality of the materials to speak for themselves, focusing on the interior to provide the details that a man really needs.  Lined with medical-grade nylon and Holland & Sherry suiting wool, inside of the bags the focus is on functionality, filled with pockets and wide-mouthed zippers.  These are the sort of bag that every man needs, they’re not flashy, you won’t see them on some runway, but what they will do is make your life easier, and be a daily compliment to your suit for decades to come.

 

The Knottery – Led by Curiosity

May 24, 2012
Brand, Ties, Worth While Week
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Army Knit Tie and Floral Chambray Pocket Square

I first caught wind of the Knottery the same way a lot of early adopters did, through other blogs.  Jack and Jay’s foray into the world of ties caused a stir early on, as the company seemed to have their pulse on exactly what the young menswear crowd was looking for.  The designs were attractive and varied, but most importantly everything was accessible.  Clocking in at well under fifty dollars, the Knottery’s ties filled a gap in the market, offering affordable ties that actually looked good.  I personally fell neatly into the brand’s demographic and picked up one of their first knit silk ties.  The tie was crafted well beyond it’s price point, and for the first time I found myself wearing ties just for the hell of it.

Brown Leather Nato Strap

Luckily, around this time I had a chance to actually meet Jay and learn a bit more about the brand.  The Knottery had recently started expanding beyond ties and pocket squares, and was beginning to develop into an all around accessories brand.  It was this type of “try anything once” mentality that has always struck me about the Knottery, and likely is the key to their success.  Free from the limitations and restrictions that can plague other brands, the Knottery has been able to experiment, and allow their ideas to guide them, all the while creating an increasingly larger collection of products for an ever receptive audience.  As Jay recounted stories of working with this guy on a pair of inexpensive glasses (forthcoming), and that manufacturer on a hat (available now), and yet another factory on a varsity jacket (scrapped) it became clear that the Knottery was a brand that was still in flux in the best kind of way.  By offering a range of products that spans everything from ties, pocket squares, and lapel flowers to belts, and shoelaces to five panels, eyeglass holders, and NATO straps, Jack and Jay’s company is impossible to describe in just one sentence.  Although if I had to give it a shot I would say the Knottery is ultimately about curiosity, taking an idea, and searching for a way to execute it on their terms.

Army Knit Tie

Army Knit Tie

Floral Chambray Pocket Square

Brown Leather NATO Strap

Brown Leather NATO Strap

Esemplare – Italian for Exemplary

May 23, 2012
Brand, Italian, Worth While Week
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When we overuse certain words, they tend to lose some of their meaning overtime.  In the age of the internet, and particularly in menswear writing, we seem to fall back on describing everything in the positive, saying that things are the greatest or the best, and after a while it’s hard to differentiate between what’s actually that great and what’s just good.  Which is why when I learned that Esemplare is Italian for exemplary, I was skeptical, not because what I had seen of the brand already wasn’t impressive, but strictly because when you stake a claim as being the best, you better be able to carry that through in everything that you do.  And then, as I began learning about Esemplare and their history, the name suddenly made sense, because when you’re a company that has been around for over fifty years and you still use the same production and design philosophy that you were founded upon, you have a right to call yourselves exemplary.

In 1961, Manifattura Riese (the company’s factory) began manufacturing clothes based on a system that combined technological advances of the day, with the handcrafted traditions of his native Italy.  The company’s intention was to create clothes that were not simply worn, but became a reflection of who you were.  Esemplare’s designs were then and have always been about foundations, taking away superflous elements to create clothes that are about complimenting the man.  Utilizing natural lines, and details that actually have a purpose, Esemplare has created clothes that are natural, and grant you the ability to be a bit careless.  Esemplare’s vision was to utilize high-quality production (something that continues today as Esemplare still employs the same factory from 1961) to make clothes that were more about how you live you life in it’s entirety than how you look in a fleeting moment.  Thankfully, Esemplare is easier to find today than ever, with more and more U.S. and international stockists being introduced with each collection.

Industry of All Nations – Beyond the “Style Capitals”

May 21, 2012
Brand, Footwear, Industry of All Nations, Worth While Week
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This week is dedicated to three brands that I believe are heading in the right direction. You might know about them already, you might not, but these companies are worth paying attention to in the year ahead. First up is the Los Angeles based, but globally produced, Industry of All Nations.

For years now the menswear scene has been suffering from a case of regional bias.  While we have been focusing all of our attention on England, Italy, the U.S., Japan, and occasionally Spain and France, we also seemed to ignore some of the largest and culturally richest countries in the world.  Which is why it’s was about time that a company like Industry of All Nations was created, a brand that turns our attention onto oft-overlooked regions and their respective styles.  Belts and espadrilles from Argentina, sweaters from Bolivia, jeans and shirts from southeast India, loafers from Buenos Aires, sneakers from Kenya, slippers from Mexico.  IOAN has adopted an approach rarely seen in modern menswear, ignoring the typical “style capitals,” focusing instead on lesser talked about countries and the products that make them unique.  By going straight to the source, IOAN is able to offer products as they’ve always been, maintaining century’s old designs and localized production to keep everything as authentic as possible.

From my experience, this attitude is clearly paying off when it comes to their products.  I had seen the faja belt and Portenos saddle loafers in person before, and while I was drawn to the  look of them, it wasn’t until IOAN sent me a pair of their sport espadrilles that I had a chance to try their stuff out for myself.  First things first, these are not some goodyear soled, thousand dollar cordovan leather dress shoes, and they certainly will not last as long.  But this is part of the appeal of espadrilles, the sole is made of braided rope and will wear away and fray overtime, (the box itself even says “meant to fray”). The rope sole does have some advantages though, as it flexes, rolling off on each impact for a very comfortable feel.  The shoe itself dates back to 1907, when a factory in Alpargatas, Argentina began producing them, and since that day the design and technique have all remained the same.  The laces give the shoe a different look than most espadrilles, which is nice as they don’t tread into the dangerous Toms territory.  Overall, the sport espadrilles have that perfect summer kick around feel, they’re breathable and simple and at only thirty-five dollars, you can afford to toss them on and let ‘em fray.

Boast USA – What’s in a Name?

May 7, 2012
Brand, History, Prep, Sports, Tennis Week
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Tennis Pro Charlie Pasarell Wearing Boast in 1975

In 1973 when Bill St. John founded Boast, the company’s name was not just a word, it encapsulated the very spirit of American tennis during that era.  The early’s 70′s were a time of American dominance on and off the court, when players with big personalities would win games with authority and then go out for a few beers after.  During that year, St. John was working as a resident pro in Greenwich, Connecticut when decided to start a company that would emulate this bold era of American tennis.  Boast’s tennis sweaters became an instant success, not only on the tennis courts but in golf and squash as well.  Boast tapped into the attitude of this period, when athletes were brash and creative, and creatives dabbled in sports.  For Boast, this was a time of dominance in their own right as, everyone from the Yale squash team, to tennis pros, to John Updike sported the company’s maple leaf logo.

John Updike Wearing Boast

While that maple leaf emblem might have fallen out of the public eye for a few years now, the brand has recently seen a revival as entrepreneurs John Dowling and Alex Tiger have worked to reintroduce Boast to the modern market.  Inspired by their love for the brand that they used to wear as kids, the two men decided to contact Bill St. John to bring the brand into the 21st century.  Boast’s recognizable Pervuian cotton polos and maple leaf logo remain, but with the support of creatives Partners & Spade, and Ryan Babenzien, the designs have been updated for the contemporary man with that same brash spirit of 1970′s tennis pros.

Bill St. John and His Sister Wearing Boast in 1974

Mackintosh – The World’s First Waterproof Jacket

April 16, 2012
Brand, History, Outerwear, Rain Week
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While Charles Macintosh was no fashion designer, his single innovation changed the clothes we wear forever.  In 1823, while experimenting with rubber, Macintosh, a Scottish chemist, stumbled upon the world’s first completely waterproof material.  Created by joining two fabrics together with liquid rubber, the material was entirely sealed, preventing any precipitation from seeping through.  Calling the material “rubberized cloth,” Macintosh founded his eponymous company and began producing waterproofed versions of traditional British riding coats.  These jacket’s were unlike anything else on the market, simultaneously offering two things that were previously unimaginable together – dryness and comfort.  Throughout the rainy United Kingdom, Macintosh’s jackets practically sold themselves, and pretty soon the company had to change up in order to meet demand.

Charles Macintosh, the extra K in Mackintosh was originally a typo, and then was added to the company name in the early 2000's

In 1830, Charles Macintosh and Co. merged with Thomas Hancock, a Manchester based inventor who was also studying rubberized materials.  Using their combined expertise, the two men perfected the all weather jacket and Mackintosh became the official supplier of the British Army, railways, and police department.   Mackintosh continued to produce their rubberized jackets throughout the 19th and 20th century but by that point the original patent’s had expired and nearly every company on the planet had their version of the “mac coat.”

Factory Worker at Mackintosh, taping seams together

Production waned over several decades and by the 1990′s Mackintosh had been bought and sold numerous times and was on the brink of bankruptcy.  As a final effort to save the company they began rebranding themselves as high-end heritage brand, collaborating with luxury brands such as Gucci and Louis Vuitton.  By combining Charles’ original methods with contemporary designs, Mackintosh used 19th century innovation to create the ultimate modern raincoat.

Mackintosh Dunkfeld in Military and Jaffa

Mackintosh Dunoon in Yellow and Putty

Mackintosh Rain Coat in Storm

Epaulet x Mackintosh Dowanhill Raincoat in Graphite

Epaulet x Mackintosh Dowanhill Raincoat in Navy

Mackintosh Fetlar Jacket in Navy

Mackintosh Clisham Jacket in Forest

Mackintosh Hooded Dunoon Jacket in Cinnamon

The Style and Covers of Monsieur Magazine

March 16, 2012
Brand, French Week, History
2 Comments

As a strictly English speaker, trying to decipher international menswear magazines can be next to impossible, requiring me to rely heavily on the images for interpretation. Monsieur Magazine takes this to another level with their hand drawn cover artwork. The covers reflect whatever the magazine is covering in that issue, from French Dandyism, to American prep, to English tailoring. Through their details and colors, Monsieur’s covers articulate scenes and stories in and of themselves, captivating any audience regardless if they speak French or not. The magazine itself is actually the oldest menswear magazine still in circulation today, predating both GQ and Esquire by over a decade. Jacques Hébertot and Paul Poiret first published Monsieur in 1920 as a guide for men on everything from menswear, to travel, to food. Today, Monsieur adheres to the same idea it was founded upon, keeping up with trends and covering them through their words and artistic covers.

Paraboot Penny Loafers

March 12, 2012
Brand, French Week, History
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In a country not usually known for it’s footwear, Paraboot stands out as one of the finest French shoe manufacturers.  Remy-Alexis Richard, the founder of Paraboot, began creating footwear in 1908 with the intention of developing an  ”indestructible shoe.”  In 1926 Richard came to America and realized that American’s had begun to wear shoes made from a material that Richard had never seen before, rubber.  Richard traced the material back to the Amazon, where he then brought it through the Para sea port (the source of the brand’s name, Para-Boot) before arriving in France.  The merits of rubber were instantly recognized by Richard and Paraboot began producing handcrafted shoes in nearly every style on top of a durable rubber sole.  For over a century, Paraboot has remained a family owned business (Remy-Alexis’ grandson Michael still runs the company today) and has adhered to the same goal of producing sturdy, quality footwear.

I purchased my pair of Paraboot beef rolled penny loafers from C.H.C.M. right around the start of this year, and after wearing them nearly every other day for the past few months I can definitely say that Richard’s aim of producing an indestructible shoe has been accomplished.  The rubber sole is still as complete as the day I bought the shoes without any real signs of wear.  The balance between the rubber sole and the leather upper give the loafers a unique aesthetic as a formal shoe with the durability of a sneaker.  As we enter into warmer months an everyday slip on that can be worn both casually and dressed up becomes an essential, and Paraboot’s loafer certainly lives up to that.

Hackett Spring Summer 2012

February 29, 2012
Brand, British Week
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Hackett Spring Summer 2012

While the U.S. will always look to Ralph Lauren as the definitive American brand, the United Kingdom has its own unique, albeit smaller scale clothier, to stand behind.  Hackett, founded by Jeremy Hackett and Ashley Lloyd-Jennings in 1983 began as a second hand store on “the wrong end” of New Kings Road in London.  The store quickly developed a strong reputation based on its penchant for timeless used goods that appealed to the British population.  Within a couple years, Hackett recognized that the vintage market was not a realistic route if the brand wanted to keep up with demand for quality clothes.  In response, Hackett began producing their own line of garments that lived up to the standards of the traditional used pieces they had established their brand upon.

Jeremy Hackett Photo Courtesy the New York Times

The brand’s designs were guided by the knowledge of its founders, most notably Jeremy Hackett.  Hackett left school at the age of seventeen and began working in his local clothing store, trading an academic background for an education in menswear.  Hackett moved to London a year later and shortly thereafter began working at a tailor’s shop on renowned Savile Row.  Utilizing his expansive knowledge of men’s clothing, specifically the quintessential British look that Savile Row had come to define, Hackett steered his namesake brand toward becoming the authority on British style.  This was represented in the early years by Hackett’s “Essential British Kit,” a collection of clothes that embodied the archetypal English aesthetic.  Over the years Hackett’s accesible style helped the brand expand throughout not only the United Kingdom, but into other countries as well, ultimately making it a dominant fixture throughout Europe.

Hackett Spring Summer 2012

Hackett’s ability to maintain their classically tailored essence while keeping designs relevant and modern has made the brand desirable for decades.  This interplay is exemplified by Hackett’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection.  With this offering Hackett pulls from the classics, both in cut and in design to create pieces that both allude to the past and express modernity.  The core of the collection titled, “The British Explorer” features desert tan blousons, sand khaki suiting, white trousers, and safari jackets.  Hackett has also included the formalwear they’re known for, this time pulling inspiration from the 1960′s with slim-fit suiting, cutaway collared button downs, and windowpane checked blazers.  Unfortunately Hackett does not currently have any U.S. locations but certain items are available on Yoox.

Hackett Spring Summer 2012

Hackett Spring Summer 2012

A Flight Ready Timepiece: IWC Pilot’s Watch

February 22, 2012
Brand, Flight Week, History, Watches
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IWC Big Pilot's Watch

Air Force and Navy pilots regularly subject themselves to conditions far more severe than those experienced by the average person. High altitudes, low temperatures, tight quarters, perilous missions, these are all daily circumstances for fighter pilots.  To compete with these perilous situations military pilots have to be outfitted with hardwearing flight suits, helmets, and equipment.  One of these special accouterments is a watch that can withstand the elements at over fifty thousand feet where the extraordinarily high air pressure, and complex flight instruments have a tendency to cause normal watches to become grossly inaccurate.  

Backing on a Special Edition Big Pilot's Watch Paying Homage to the U.S. Navy's Top Gun Flight School

IWC (International Watch Company), the illustrious Swiss watchmakers, was the first to develop a flight-ready watch in 1936 with the “Special Pilot’s Watch.”  One of the earliest models of this piece was the Big Pilot Watch, IWC’s largest watch ever and a true testament to the size of Pilot Watches and the unprecedented amount of features packed into one timepiece.  Beginning with the face of the watch, the Pilot Watch’s dial is reminiscent of the look of a cockpit with bold clear numbers and dashes for easy readability, a crucial attribute for pilot’s who did not have time to waste trying to read a cluttered dial.  This face is protected by a dense, airtight piece of glass that is designed to shield the watch’s movement from any debris that could potentially float in mid flight.  Below the dial is the movement itself, an unbelievably precise arrangement that is still to this day a marvel of modern watch manufacturing.  The movement is encased in a layered multi-component structure that protects it from any magnetic waves or atmospheric interference that might disrupt the watch’s accuracy.  

Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar

The Pilot Watch was expertly designed as the optimum watch for flight personel, and it certainly lived up to its claim.  Thanks to its unrivaled accuracy, the watch has been adopted by the venerable British Royal Air Force and the United States Navy as well as countless other commercial, private, and military pilots for over a half century.  Today the Pilot Watch comes in an array of different models, each maintaining the original characteristics of the watch, such as the legible face and the trademark triangle at twelve o’clock, but also adding in various other dials, stopwatches, and unique details.  For more information on this momentous timepiece, you can visit Hodinkee, the upmost source for anything watch related or IWC’s own website.

Airplane Detail on the Dial of a Big Pilot's Watch

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