Six months ago, if you’d asked me what I thought about the heritage movement I would’ve told you with all the confidence in the world that it was undoubtedly on it’s last legs. And yet here I am, eating those imaginary words by writing about a pair of Red Wings as one of my final posts so the year. You could say that it’s this southwestern atmosphere messing with my head, but I suppose in a way it all makes sense. I, like so many of my peers, had used the heritage wave as my gateway drug to the hashtag menswear set, and as they say everything is cyclical, so with another year coming to a close, I have found my way back to the start once again.
Before I dive into this, I feel the need to point out that I’m not some Americana fanboy. Do I find it sad that out of Hanover, Footjoy, Florsheim, Allen Edmonds, Bass, Alden, Chippewa, Wolverine, Red Wing, hell even Nike, New Balance, and countless other brands that once produced their shoes in America, we’re left with only a couple that have stayed true to the states? Absolutely, but for me, what’s really disheartening is that as we move our production to other countries we might gain cheaper products, but we’re also losing the notion of true American design.
You look at English shoe brands, or Italian shoe brands, or even Spanish brands, and there’s a definitive look to them. You can tell their origins, their era, their style. On the other hand, if you pick up a pair of American shoes or “American” shoes, they’re just sort of there. I’ll leave Alden out of this discussion because they’ve always been a brand that’s open to innovation and collaboration, but as for everyone else, they seem content to just keep cranking out the same designs, or worse, stealing from other brands. It’s not about the lack of products made in this country, it’s about the lack of products made in this country that are worth talking about. Flipping through eBay listings of vintage American shoes, there’s something dignified about them, there’s a touch of English influence, but they’re also sleeker, the details are more city, less country, but what’s most important to me is that they’re absolutely American, not just in production, but in design. I’m truly not even sure what it means to be an “American shoe” anymore.
I was inspired to write this after looking at a photo that Ping had posted on Tumblr of his shoe collection, which included a beautiful pair of vintage Florsheim longwings. Sure his shoes looked so great partially because he’d taken care of them, but there was also something inherently handsome about their design. Everyday, people scrutinize and discuss the lasts, details, and shapes of Edward Greens, Carminas, Alden, Church’s, Vass, Alfred Sargent, etc. because these are shoes that deserve that analysis, they are thoughtfully designed, and meticulously crafted. Maybe it’s just the nerd in me, but I wish that all American brands still made shoes that called for that sort of critical eye.
The only sign of hope comes out of the Northeast, where mocassin brands such as Rancourt and Co., have worked to keep production as close to the original methods as possible. They’re setting a new precedent for American innovation mixed with traditional craftsmanship that I can only hope that other brands learn to follow in the future. I apologize if this sounded like some heritage blog post circa 2008, but recently I feel like people are searching only for the aesthetic and ignoring what goes into a product, and what makes it worth wearing, I know we now have access to the items we want at cheaper prices, but I can only hope that it doesn’t mean we forget where we came from.