In the twenty-five years since Massimo Piombo started his career as a designer, the state of Italian menswear in America has evolved from culty to commonplace. Although, as terms such as spalla camicia, and gorge height have become so standard that we toss them around without a second thought, I often feel like the actual craft behind these jackets and suits goes unappreciated. I’ll admit that, even as I wrote my initial article on MP di Massimo Piombo a couple months back, I didn’t really think twice about the fact that MP jacket’s featured hand-sewn buttonholes, or were entirely made by hand in Kiton’s factories, or that Piombo had sourced products from across the world for these jackets. Which is why, I was more than appreciative this past week, when the good people at Mr Porter offered a chance for me to check out their stock of MP di Massimo Piombo first hand.
While he was noticeably absent from his usual spot at the top of the street style roundups out of Pitti Uomo this year, the clear winner of the past week in my eyes was L’Uomo Vogue’s Fashion Editor Robert Rabensteiner. Rabensteiner’s reign over the week began immediately after day one of Pitti Uomo when it became clear that just about every major “trend” coming out of the trade show this year was something that Rabensteiner was already wearing three years ago. While I’ll hold my personal judgement on wether or not floppy hats and shawls have any real place in menswear right now, I do have to hand it to Rabensteiner for basically proving once again that he operates on an entirely different wavelength from everyone else.