Rundown

A trip can be a refreshing respite from the normalcy of a daily routine, but it also provides a great opportunity to catch up on some reading. We’ve become increasingly dependent on the instantaneous nature of the Internet but should be careful not to ignore the wealth of knowledge that exists in print. Here are a few suggestions to help you gain some stylistic knowledge, the old fashioned way.

Books:

Dressing the Man by Alan Flusser Simply put Dressing the Man is dense, in both weight and pure information. The book is packed with definitions, investigations, and explanations, making it an incredible reference tool on how to properly build a wardrobe for years to come.

Bespoke: The Men’s Style of Saville Row by James Sherwood Another book that will add some extra, but valuable, weight to your luggage, this tome provides an illustrated history of Saville Row. Written for anyone that appreciates tailoring, this book explores each Saville Row suiting house and the customers that frequented these establishments.

Guides to the Basics:

For those looking for less hefty, more fundamental reading material, there are several options out there. A few standouts include:

The Handbook of Style: A Man’s Guide to Looking Good Published by Esquire Written in the informal style that Esquire is known for, this book supplies an unpretentious explanation of essential terms to help guide the reader in basic style decisions.

Details Men’s Style Manual: The Ultimate Guide for Making Your Clothes Work for You This one takes a piece by piece approach, dividing each chapter into separate garments to educate the reader on choosing the right outfit for different scenarios.

A Gentleman Gets Dressed Up: What to Wear, When to Wear It, How to Wear It by John Bridges and Bryan Curtis A more formally oriented book in which the authors adhere to specific rules to describe how a gentleman would dress himself “from head to toe,” and for specific occasions.

Inspirational:

When it comes to style, visualising is often times the easiest way to learn, and there is a considerable amount of material that falls within this category.

Icons of Men’s Style by Josh Sims Sims takes iconic photographs of film stars from yesteryear and elaborates on an individual item that each actor wore. Sims covers nearly every possible garment and provides not only a background on the item, but also illustrates how to wear it.

Take Ivy by Shosuke Ishizu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, Toshiyuki Kurosu, and Teruyoshi Hayashida First published in 1965 Take Ivy is a comprehensive collection of photographs taken on the campuses of American Ivy League universities. The images perfectly capture the style and attitude of early American prep. The sequel, Take 8 Ivy, came out this past year; these books together provide great inspiration for today by alluding to the past.

Magazines:

When discussing men’s style magazines, it’s tough to ignore the old standbys such as GQ, Esquire, and Details. That said, venturing outside of the American publication world can provide different perspectives to enhance your wardrobe. Some other options include:

Esquire UK This is in my opinion one of the best written magazines in the world. Taking an informative, yet casual style Esquire UK provides a clear-cut look into style from across the pond.

Inventory Magazine Published in Vancouver, Canada, Inventory may only be a handful of issues old, but it has already gained an impressive reputation thanks to its extensive content. Through interviews with well known designers Inventory gives a comprehensive look into how collections and brands are created.

Stepping beyond English…

The Italian cousin of GQ provides some insight into the intensive world of Italian menswear in a familiar format.

Free & Easy This is likely the most well known of Japanese menswear magazines, providing one the most thorough looks into contemporary Japanese style. The Japanese draw heavily on American influence and this is exemplified through the photo shoots that almost seem to encapsulate American style better than most Americans can.

Lightning A lesser known Japanese men’s magazine dedicated to everything vintage. Images of worn denim and leather boots are paired along side photos of Mcqueen and motorcycles, making Lightning an inspirational aid for the heritage crowd.

2nd Magazine a monthly product based publication is another great Japanese import. Featuring clear photographs of quality American products, 2nd Magazine captures the prep aesthetic and presents it beautifully.

Men’s Ex Easily my favorite magazine in the world, Men’s Ex thrives off of it’s comprehensive collection of street style photograph, or as they call it, “Snaps.” Covering everything from spreezed out Italians, to rugged Japanese youths, to Brunello Cucinelli to Mark McNairy, Men’s Ex is the ultimate in inspiration.

The Travel Bag

January 9, 2012

Bags, Rundown, Travel Week

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Contemporary travel is no longer the enjoyable exercise that it once was – nowadays it is a simple struggle to make the experience as painless as possible. Keeping everything streamlined by carrying the bare minimum is the best way to arrive unscathed and finding the right bag is paramount to this process. The ideal travel bag should be large enough to store all the essentials for a trip, yet still compact enough to fit into minuscule luggage compartments. And of course it must be sufficiently durable to take a beating from any heavyhanded airline employee and still come out looking good as new.

The Weekender - Just big enough for a quick day or two, but compact enough that you can lug it around during your trip without feeling burdened.

WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie Charleroi Leather Weekend Bag

Belstaff Tour Leather Holdall Bag

Veja Weekend Bag

Porter Smoky Weekender Bag

The Multi-Day - On trips that are more than a few days, it’s important to have options so opt for a bag with a large center compartment that’s big enough to fit a decent amount of your wardrobe.

Mulberry Medium Clipper Holdall Bag

J.W. Hulme Co. Medium Duffle Bag

Barbour Leather Medium Travel Explorer Bag

Barbour Quilted Travel Explorer Bag

The Extended Stay - For trips that are a week or longer you’ll need enough room to space in the majority of your wardrobe, while still leaving room for accouterments and anything else you might pick up along the way.

Tumi Large Wheeled Split Duffel

Filson Canvas Large Duffle Bag

Rimowa 26" Topas Titanium Multi-Wheel Trolley

Bric's Life 30" Carry-On Spinner

The Add-Ons - During any trip, it’s often the smallest of accessories that provide the most comfort.

C.O. Bigelow Ernest Alexander Dopp Kit

WANT Les Essentiels De La Vie Kenyatta Dopp Kit

Mismo Vega 15" Laptop Case and Document Holder

Lavenham Quilted iPad Cover

Prediction Five – Hats

January 6, 2012

Hats, Predictions Week, Rundown

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You can blame it on Justin Doss, Mad Men, or simple nostalgia, but any way you look at it, the hat is making a comeback. Prior to the 1960’s no outfit was complete without a hat, they were not a mere accessory but a necessity for everyman, everyday. Then, in the early 1960’s, John F. Kennedy stood before the American public at his inauguration without a hat on. JFK was the first president to take the oath with his head uncovered, and from that day forward the American hat industry entered into a steep decline.

And yet over the past year or so there has been an odd resurgence of hats amongst the menswear community. Hats have begun to pop up again in look books, street style photographs, and other publications. In the year to come this trend is likely to continue, with hats not only appear in style press, but seeping into everyday life as well.

Justin Doss

As hats continue to step back into the spotlight, men will once again begin understanding that the key to a good looking hat is proportions. Considering the right style, brim size, and color is essential in choosing a hat that will compliment your features and wardrobe – not appear awkward or out of place. We cannot all look as sleek as Doss in a rabbit hat, but the right hat can add a personal, distinguishing touch to an outfit.

Borsalino

Borsalino Claudio

Borsalino Como

Lock & Co Hatters

Lock & Co Hatters Rabbit Felt Fedora

Lock & Co Hatters Rambler Wool Fedora

Aubin & Wills

Aubin & Wills Tweed Flat Cap

Soulland

Soulland Vigga Fedora

Rag & Bone

Rag & Bone Grosgrain Band Fedora

Prediction Two – Houndstooth

January 3, 2012

Predictions Week, Rundown

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Over the past couple years we’ve seen the return of classic fabrics and patterns from the United Kingdom, such as Tweed and Fair Isle. With any luck this trend will continue in the year to come, as designers dig deeper into traditional British patterns and update them to a modern context. One such style is houndstooth, a recognizable two tone, broken check pattern that stems from the Scottish lowlands. The trademark design of houndstooth is achieved by alternating light and dark threads into a 2:2 twill – two over, two under. This alternating technique gives houndstooth its signature abstract four point design, that is also the origin of the houndstooth name. The jagged design resembles the shape of a dog’s tooth, which lead to the pattern being called, “houndstooth.” The look of houndstooth is dignified, alluding back to an era of more rigid, formal attire. During this time period, patterns were one of the few ways in which you could show distinction through dress. This distinction was not merely about looking good though, as patterns, like houndstooth, often held great importance as a signifier for what clan you belonged to. Originally the pattern was utilized primarily in the fabrication of British wool suiting that was done in a very boxy cut that would be unflattering by today’s standards. Nowadays the houndstooth pattern has been updated and can now be found on a wide variety of fabrics and garments.

Ovadia & Sons

Ovadia & Sons Houndstooth Print Tie

Gant by Michael Bastian

Gant by Michael Bastian Houndstooth Hat

Flannel: Yesterday and Today

December 28, 2011

Fabric Week, History, Rundown

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Ovadia & Sons Walking Coat

To some, the word ‘flannel’ instantly conjures up images of nineties grunge legends wearing loose fitting shirts and looking dirty enough to live up to their genre’s name. In actuality the fabric goes much farther back than that. Flannel is a nearly six hundred year old fabric that should be recognized more for it’s functional merits than for it’s association with Kurt Cobain. Flannel was first fabricated in sixteenth century Wales out of dense wool yarns from local sheep. Initially, it was primarily worn by Welsh farmers because its thick construction allowed them to work in any conditions. As flannel’s cold-combatting reputation grew it was quickly adopted throughout Germany, France, and many other European nations.

Overtime, as territories and trade routes expanded, flannel arrived in America where it became popular among woodsmen, lumberjacks, and other outdoor workers in the Northern United States. Flannel remained a staple in northern blue collar wardrobes for decades, during which time brands such as Woolrich and Pendleton manufactured legendary goods in flannel patterns. In the mid twentieth century flannel took on a more dignified persona, as the gray flannel suit became a cornerstone of the business man’s wardrobe. The straightforward look of gray flannel perfectly reflected the professionalism that reigned during this era.

Epaulet Tapered Rudy Cargo Trouser Light Grey Flannel

Then, in the late twentieth century flannel was embraced by counterculture movements within the northwest because of its popularity amongst the outdoors community. The prevalence of plaid flannel in this region made the clothes cheap and accessible – ideal for grunge rockers who wanted to appear unpretentious, and didn’t want to spend too much time or money on their clothes while still wearing something functional.

The days of flannel existing primarily on opposite ends of the spectrum; as either ill-fitting and careless, or as a fabric reserved for gray suits, are long gone. In the modern context, flannel has been widely utilized by designers as it is a timeless textile that is ideal for winter garments. The wool construction, and seasonal patterns and textures make flannel a perfect fabric for any winter garment, which is certainly reflected in this season’s collections.

Ovadia & Sons

Ovadia & Sons Heather Brown Lambswool Flannel Trouser

Ovadia & Sons Pistachio Lambswool Trouser

Epaulet

Epaulet Grey Flannel Buttondown

Gitman Bros. Vintage

Gitman Bros. Vintage Portuguese Flannel

Ian Velardi

Ian Velardi Sportcoat

Mackintosh

Mackintosh Duncan Fox Wool Flannel Coat

Gant Rugger

Gant Rugger Plaid Flannel Shirt

Alexander Olch

Alexander Olch

Moleskin: From British Foundries to Italian Suiting

December 26, 2011

Fabric Week, Moleskin, Rundown

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Epaulet Moleskin Walt Trouser Detail

Despite it’s name, Moleskin is actually not made from the hides of burrowing animals. In reality moleskin is produced by weaving cotton yarns together to create a thick, durable material. The name stems from the textile’s velvety soft finish that feels nearly identical to an actual mole’s skin. This trademark texture is created by shearing the piling of the woven fabric down to a smooth finish. While the feel of Moleskin is what gave it it’s name, it is the sturdy weave that makes Moleskin such a durable fabric.

Moleskin was initially used for making British factory worker’s garments because the fabric was so tightly woven that any debris or scrap would simply glide right off the surface of their clothes. For these same reasons Moleskin still resonates today as a choice fabric during the winter. Moleskin is heralded for being nearly windproof as the taut construction prevents any wind from permeating through. Best of all the raised texture of the fabric makes it’s easy to simply brush off snow or spills, thus maintaining the distinct look of the garment without much effort.

Traditionally, Moleskin has mainly been used for pants. But today the advantages of Moleskin have become more widespread and has recently been utilized for jackets, shirts, and other garments. For this winter many companies offer a wide variety of Moleskin products that would be a great addition to a winter wardrobe.

L.B.M. 1911