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Tennis Week

Björn Borg

There was a time, during tennis’ early days, when the entire sport could be described as simple.  Casual games were played between friends on country clubs’ grass courts during the weekends.  They dressed in basic white shoes, wide legged pants, long sleeve button downs, or the occasional polo shirt, and tennis sweaters in the cooler weather.  The competitive sphere was fragmented and difficult to make a living off of, which kept pro tennis is relative obscurity.  And then in the early seventies, the sport experienced a major shift.  The professional circuit became more organized as “The Open Era” was ushered in, allowing players to travel along the tour circuit and live off their tournament earnings.  As tennis was legitimized, public interest in the sport rose sharply, and television networks began broadcasting matches.

John McEnroe

These televised games introduced the modern tennis star to the American public and by the late seventies, tennis was dominated by players that were noteworthy not merely for their prowess on the court, but for their larger than life personalities.  It was a time when players were unforgiving and unforgettable, when pros proudly wore Fila headbands, striped polos, long hair, and Nike sneakers as they won championships.  Players such as John McEnroe and Bjorn Borg were idolized not only for their skill, but for their personalities as well.  This was an era when audiences would sit on the edge of their seats, as games would come down to that final point.  And then as that last hit would land just so, turning pro into champion, that player would fall to his knees and let out a defiant victory cry.  It is those moments that define the golden years of tennis - extraordinary athletes  playing the once simple game with legendary style.

Björn Borg

John McEnroe

Björn Borg and John McEnroe

Jimmy Connors

Jimmy Connors and Arthur Ashe

John Newcombe

Guillermo Vilas

Guillermo Vilas

Ivan Lendl

Ilie Nastase

Ilie Nastase

Arthur Ashe

Ken Rosewall

Stan Smith

Onny Parun

Manuel Orantes

Manuel Orantes

Roscoe Tanner

Roscoe Tanner

Pro Bill Tilden Wearing a Tennis Sweater

Since I’ve started writing about menswear I had never come across a topic that I simply couldn’t find a clear narrative about,—that was until I decided to write about the tennis sweater.  As I attempted to string together the history of this classic piece of American sportswear, it became clear that no one really knows exactly where it came from.  It’s not as if the sweater hasn’t been popular for decades, there are even photos dating as far back as the thirties of tennis players sporting these cable knit v-neck sweaters on the court.  The biggest problem with determining exactly where the tennis sweater comes from is that it actually isn’t exclusive to tennis.

Tennis Sweater from Apparel Arts 1935

Around the turn of the 20th century, tennis pros were seen wearing early versions of the tennis sweater that had thin, spread out stripes around a v-neck collar.  But from here the sweaters took an odd and indirect route,  ending up as ski gear both in the U.S. and in Europe.  While it’s not clear how they moved from the court to ski resorts, by the twenties the cable knit sweaters had found their place on the slopes.  From there, it was the Prince of Wales, in his typical innovative manner, who brought the sweater onto the links, wearing it as part of his golf outfit.

The Four Musketeers of Tennis – Henri Cochet, Jacques Brugnon, René Lacoste, and Jean Borotra

By this time the sweater had arrived at it’s modern incarnation—a white body, with cable stitching across the front, and colored stripes tight around a v-neck collar.  The Prince of Wales favored the touch of color amidst the simplicity, a style that was quickly picked up by American golfers on courses throughout the nation.  Interestingly enough, back in Europe the sweaters had also found their way onto the pitch, as cricket players, following the Prince of Wales’ example, started wearing them. This is why today the terms “tennis sweater” and “cricket sweater” are often used interchangeably.  Once the sweaters had made their way into country clubs, it was an easy step onto the court, allowing play to continue well into the cooler months.  It was here that the tennis sweater found its rightful place, becoming an iconic part of the sport itself.  Off the court the tennis sweater became a casual favorite of everyone from Cary Grant to suburban dads.  The tennis sweater is less easy to find these days, but  it’s unmistakable cable stitching and colored stripes, still make it a timeless piece.

Brooks Brothers Cable Knit Cotton Tennis Sweater

Polo Ralph Lauren Cable-Knit Tennis Sweater

Smart Turnout Ampleforth Tennis Vest (Also Available in Long Sleeves)

Smart Turnout Navy Tennis Sweater

Charles Trywhitt Off-White Cotton Sweater

Charles Tyrwhitt Navy Cotton Sweater

Tennis Pro Charlie Pasarell Wearing Boast in 1975

In 1973 when Bill St. John founded Boast, the company’s name was not just a word, it encapsulated the very spirit of American tennis during that era.  The early’s 70′s were a time of American dominance on and off the court, when players with big personalities would win games with authority and then go out for a few beers after.  During that year, St. John was working as a resident pro in Greenwich, Connecticut when decided to start a company that would emulate this bold era of American tennis.  Boast’s tennis sweaters became an instant success, not only on the tennis courts but in golf and squash as well.  Boast tapped into the attitude of this period, when athletes were brash and creative, and creatives dabbled in sports.  For Boast, this was a time of dominance in their own right as, everyone from the Yale squash team, to tennis pros, to John Updike sported the company’s maple leaf logo.

John Updike Wearing Boast

While that maple leaf emblem might have fallen out of the public eye for a few years now, the brand has recently seen a revival as entrepreneurs John Dowling and Alex Tiger have worked to reintroduce Boast to the modern market.  Inspired by their love for the brand that they used to wear as kids, the two men decided to contact Bill St. John to bring the brand into the 21st century.  Boast’s recognizable Pervuian cotton polos and maple leaf logo remain, but with the support of creatives Partners & Spade, and Ryan Babenzien, the designs have been updated for the contemporary man with that same brash spirit of 1970′s tennis pros.

Bill St. John and His Sister Wearing Boast in 1974

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