If there ever was a genre for “good ol’ American films,” I have no doubt that The Great Escape would reign boastfully at the top of that list. It’s the ultimate World War Two era drama, pitting a rag-tag team of Allied POW’s against a flock of German soldiers that are at once both clueless and ruthless. Released in 1963, the film is a great piece of Cold War propaganda, using a tale of WWII triumph and sacrifice to remind the viewer that we must always march onward in the face of evil. Aside from its rah-rah patriotism, The Great Escape has long been heralded for its style, especially the epic motorcycle jump courtesy of Steve McQueen during the film’s finale. Of particular note for me though was the knitwear on screen, which was just as varied and roughed up as the film’s characters.

The Great Escape6

James Garner’s looking a bit too neat in a rollneck sweater and fresh-pressed pleated pants combo, while standing next to James Coburn in a remarkably threadbare knit

As an interesting aside, it was actually The Great Escape that helped immortalize McQueen as one of Hollywood’s first “superstars,” with all the baggage that comes with such a title. The cast and crew of the film recall McQueen being temperamental at best and impossible at worst, as he drank, screwed, and complained his way through the shoot. Nonetheless, McQueen and the rest of his motley brigade, which included the likes of James Garner and Charles Bronson, still managed to scrap together one of the greatest war movies ever made. If you somehow haven’t seen it yet, I suggest you head over to Netflix and give The Great Escape a watch on the double.

Read More

Screen Shot 2013-04-21 at 3.53.45 PM

I’m always shocked when I hear someone boast about not owning a library card. I realize that it’s easy to think that internet has “everything worth knowing” these days, but that’s just ridiculous. Take for example Gentry Magazine, the mid-century menswear magazine that unfortunately has been largely forgotten overtime. There’s only a handful or so articles on Gentry online, and issues can fetch as much as a few hundred dollars on eBay, but I’ve still always hoped to check it out for myself one day, and this past Friday, thanks to my library card, I finally got that chance. The New York Public Library has all twenty-two glorious issues from Gentry’s short six year run, and after spending the day flipping through all of them all I can say is if you ever get a chance, I implore you to head up to the NYPL and read through as many issues as you can. Gentry covered everything from classic literature, to Renaissance art, to Eastern philosophy, to what can only be described as 1950′s street style, and it all comes together as one of the greatest resources for men ever published. While I wish that I could have scanned these issue wholesale, I was able to take a couple hundred pictures of specific details from the magazine that really jumped out to me, and so here are my favorites from that crop.

Buttonless Polo coat with an accompanying fabric swatch

Buttonless Polo coat with an accompanying camel hair swatch

A great pairing of suede chukkas with a two on one double breasted jacket

A great pairing of suede chukkas with a two on one double breasted jacket

Read More

Sleepy Jones

If idle hands are the devil’s workshop, then Andy Spade must be the most godly man in this city. It’s been a couple years since we’ve seen Spade unleash a new project onto the clothed masses, but that hardly means he’s been laying low. Between the Warby Parker flagship store, the Harry’s shaving supplies launch, and a new crop of Target ads, the Partners & Spade machine continues to whir along. And yet somehow, in between all the work that his studio is churning out, Spade and his partners Anthony Sperduti and Chad Buri, have found the time to reemerge into the fashion world on his own, more comfortable terms.

Sleepy Jones1

Read More

Nigel Cabourn Womenswear2

Nigel Cabourn once humbly introduced himself as “supposedly a designer,” but I believe a more fitting title would be “anti-designer.” Perched in his studio way out in the English countryside, Cabourn has been dreaming up pieces for over four decades, drawing most of his inspiration from a collection of three thousand military pieces that he has accumulated over the years.

Nigel Cabourn Womenswear5

 

Read More

mrs-kennedy-and-me-dopo-50-anni-l-agente-dei-se-17547

The high temperature today is sixty degrees. A couple days ago that figure was in the forties. A week ago we saw temperatures hit the mid-seventies and for all I know a week from now it could either be thirty-two or a hundred-two. Lately, it seems as if the word “spring,” has been rendered meaningless, acting as little more than a taunting memory of a mythical time of year when the weather is actually enjoyable. Or at the very least reliable.

Now I chose to live in this East Coast climate, so I can’t place the blame anywhere except squarely upon myself. But that doesn’t stop me from begrudging the weather gods on those mercurial mornings that make my favorite season seem so far away. Of course, it’s not spring that I’m referring to here, it’s a far more important time of year: popover season. If you’ve been following my work for Esquire.com, you’ll already well aware that there’s something about April and the changing of the weather that restarts my obsession with the half-placket shirt. While the popover’s origins remain nearly impossible to pin down, the shirt was widely documented throughout the mid-century Ivy heyday as a favorite item for Hollywood’s more sartorial minded figures. Yet the most legendary popover moment belongs not to a star of the silver screen, but to a man whose name is inescapable in the sphere of men’s style – Gianni Agnelli.

Read More

On this week’s episode Kyle, Jeff and I delve into the career of Turkish designer Umit Benan Sahin. Since his debut as the “Rising Star” of the Fall 2009 edition of Pitti Uomo, Umit has become somewhat of a folk hero for the young menswear community. In this episode we discuss his ability to meld tailoring with streetwear, his familial influences, and even his tattoos as we try to determine what makes Umit Benan one of the most fascinating figures in modern menswear.

My experience with vintage shoes has mainly been marked by hasty purchases, buyers remorse, and a closet full of footwear that was oh so tempting online, yet downright disappointing upon arrival. And yet time and time again I find myself scouring eBay, or perusing through thrift stores like a perspective dog owner at the pound looking for a pair of neglected shoes, that “just needs a good home.” You might ask, with my success rate hovering somewhere around my shoe size, why do I willingly fall into a leather soled money pit time and time again? The answer lies in the old gambler’s mentality: because for as many times as I lose, I have to win once in a while. I’ve only ever really struck gold twice, but the two pair below are enough to make me forget all my missteps. Or at least that’s what I keep telling myself.

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH

I have no idea what year these Church’s tassel loafers are from, nor do I know how many owners they’ve been through in that time, nor do I have any idea as to what type of leather they’re made out of. Hell I can’t even tell what the original color was. What I do know is that these might be the heaviest and stiffest tassel loafers I have ever come across. They’ve probably been polished and conditioned about ten thousand times over the years, and yet the leather still feels as stiff as the day these tassels embarked on their inaugural stroll. They’re discolored, scratched, and could probably roast a chicken if placed in direct sunlight, but I’ve yet to come across a pair of shoes that works better with seersucker trousers. I figure, my feet might be boiling, but at least my legs will be comfortable, I mean that’s a fair trade right?

Read More

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH

It might seem like an odd adjective to use to describe a footwear company, but when it comes to contemporary shoe brands, there’s no one more grounded than Lewiston, Maine’s own Rancourt and Company. Since the 1960′s three generations of the Rancourt family have been designing and producing footwear, and it is their pragmatic approach that makes them one of the most talked about names in shoe production to this day. When you visit Rancourt’s site you won’t find shoes with neon colored accents, or bizarre dress shoe/sneaker hybrids, instead what will find is a collection of gorgeous, American footwear that at once seems to harken back to New England’s hand-sewn traditions and embrace the novelty of modern menswear. Rancourt seems to adhere to an ideology that to us might feel remarkable only in its simplicity, yet is adopted by a surprisingly small number of brands: “Give people what they actually want.”

Autosave-File vom d-lab2/3 der AgfaPhoto GmbH

Read More

EppersonMountaineeringClimbPackMoss_L10

This weekend, I went to check out this year’s edition of the AIPAD (Association of International Photography Art Dealers) show at the Park Avenue Armory, and like any event in this city that includes the word “art,” the characters in the booths ended up being almost more interesting than the art hanging on their walls. Of course, that’s not to say the show wasn’t great, (I actually wish I’d been able to get there sooner so I could recommend it to you all, but unfortunately it’s now over) it’s just that aside from the sepia-toned coma that I had slipped into by the last row, the show also left me with a bizarre desire to run out and buy a backpack.

EppersonMountaineeringClimbPackMoss_L1

 

Read More

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 3,541 other followers